This means it pinches the rope when the climber falls off or weights the rope, making it easier for the belayer to control. An upgrade from old school tube style belay devices, the atcguide contains far more than its tiny size suggests. Often copied but never equaled, the black diamond atc provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. Black diamond atcguide belay rappel device youtube. The black diamond atc is always ready to perform when you need it most. Often copied but never equaled, the black diamond atc belay device provides lightweight yet durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere.
Whereas the atcxp has been said to have 3 times the friction of the plain atc, the atcguide is said to have 2 times the friction. The atcxp, atcguide and atcsport are compatible with rope diameters from 7. Black diamonds most versatile belayrappel device, the atcguide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. How to rappel with the black diamond atc rock climbing. But because the assistedbraking belay device i was usingthe black diamond atc pilotengaged as it was designed to, i barely had to grip the rope to catch the fall. The black diamond atc guide is hot forged 7075 aluminum and weighs 102 grams 3. The atcxp is compatible with rope diameters from 8 mm to 11 mm. Figure 8 follow through graphic based on graphics from gym climbing, john long, chockstone press, 1994. If you are after just one belay device to do everything then the atc guide could well be the one for you. Description our most versatile belayrappel device, the black diamond atcguide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. Information on atc use from black diamond product information. Its allegory and diction of the scrap book agreed in point of fact inspire you to try writing a book. Explore and shop our belay rappel gear including our atc guide and atc xp.
This is black diamond atc pilot by weighmyrack on vimeo, the home for high quality videos and the people who love them. Atcguide the atcguide is a variable friction belayrappel device designed specifically for belaying and rappelling during climbing and. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. It is possible to dynamically belay both leader and the second, while the second can be belayed by tope rope belay either with the body or from top belay station. The black diamond atcxp belay device offers the same great hold and stopping power as the original version, only its now 30% lighter. Atc graphic redrawn from black diamond instructions. Two friction modes offer optimal stopping power while lowering your partner, and the versatile design accepts a wide range of rope sizes from 7. The black diamond super 8 takes the basic figure 8 design and transforms it into a lightweight, efficient climbing tool.
Black diamond updates the super versatile atc guide belay device and introduces the atc alpine guide designed for smaller rope diameters. Our most versatile belayrappel device, the black diamond atcguide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. Black diamond if you are uncertain about how to use this product. Smaller diameter ropes and new dry treated ropes feed through belayrappel devices. I was skeptical about the black diamond atcpilot when it was first released because there are numerous similar devices already on the market. During the fall i had time to brace for impact, and i kept a firm hand on the brakeend side of the rope.
Vegastradguy meets the atcguide rock climbing articles. Use the atcxp and atcsport in the hfm when you want more holding powertypically when using small diameter ropes, when rappelling a single line or when belaying a climber working a route. It is like saying kleenex for facial tissue or xerox for a copy machine. Tested by apave sudeurope sas cs 60193 322 marseille cedex 16 france. The inspirations will go finely and naturally during you gate this pdf. The black diamond atcguide and atcalpine guide conform to the safety requirements of en 151512, manual braking device, type 4. Atc guide by american company black diamond is practical and very popular belay device. You all know that a diamond is pure carbon, actually deposited sunlight and he said another thing i would not forget. Black diamonds most versatile belayrappel device thanks to its smooth and grooved sides, plus a guide mode for bringing up one or two seconding climbers with ease and control. As it turns out, this device is for the climbing gym or the crag. The black diamond atcguide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multipitch 31012016 the black diamond atc guide is a tough belay device and our favorite for multipitch climbing. It also has a unique autoblock release tab on the opposite side of the device, which ill discuss in more detail later. The black diamond method ski boot is for the modern at skier who craves downhill performance as much as tourability and comfort. The lightweight black diamond atc pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices.
Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and. We also enlarged the autoblock release hole to accept a small carabiner. The atcxp has wide ropebearing surfaces, giving it excellent du r ability and longevity. Slightly less torsionally and longitudinally stiff than the bd factor boots, the method is your choice for skiing any and all terrain, from nofalls steeps to deep powder bowls wherever you are, the method. Multiple friction modes of the black diamond atcguide provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the devices guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor. The atcguide climbing belay rappel device by black diamond is lightweight and easy to use offering smooth handling while you are. Black diamond equipment belay rappel official site. The atc pilot is black diamonds offering, and for those who prefer this style of belay device, it may be the best in its class. I agree with tahoet doing an online search for black diamond atc will provide several retailers that refer to it as the air traffic controller. Thanks to its unique geometry the atc pilot is an autolocking device. The atcxp can be used with single, double or twin ropes. It worries me that the device does not work reliably when you need it most it comes in the shape of an autotuber, and looks like a crossbreed of the salewa ergo belay, and the edelrid jul 2. The black diamond atcguide is a versatile multifunction belay device, with dualfriction belay and abseil modes.
Insert a loops of rope through the atcxp from the open. But im a huge gear nerd, so i had to try it out this assisted braking belay device. This classic design features a large surface area that dissipat. The black diamond atc guide is a tough belay device and provides the best value for multipitch climbing. Black diamond atc guide rockface indoor climbing centre. There are no moving parts, its easy to set up, and not catastrophic if you setup the rope in the. This is one of the effects of how the author can change the readers from each word. Providing an added level of security to your belay, the atc pilot threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8. The new black diamond pilot is a simple yet highly effective belay device, which could change the way we use belay both in top rope and lead climbing situations. The black diamond atc guide is highly versatile piece of climbing gear for belaying, abseiling, or setting up direct belays.
The black diamond atc is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. What worries me with the black diamond atc pilot is not the use of material, that i consider safe. The black diamond atc pilot is a geometry assisted belay device for ropes in the 8. Bookmark file pdf alpine guide books by sentence and bring a scrap book to door by everybody. The belay device with its ergonomic shape allows for smooth rope handling and gradual lowering. It combines a standard tubestyle design with the ability to belay seconding climbers directly off the anchor on multipitch climbs, conveniently autoblocking to catch their falls. It has been noted that user feedback for the atcxp convinced black diamond to tonedown the friction ridges for the atcguide. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the devices guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor. My favorite manual atc, theres not much of a difference between all of the manual atcs but i like this one because the metal doesnt wear.
Black diamond also enlarged the autoblock release hole to accept a small carabiner. There is also a guide mode for belaying one or two seconding climbers. Shop the best selection of belay and rappel devices at, where youll find premium outdoor gear and clothing and experts to guide you through selection. The original atc works well with rock climbing ropes and larger how to rappel with the black diamond atc canyoneering usa explains how to use a black diamond. A super light belay device designed for sport cragging and gym use, the black diamond actsport is a simplified, singlerope version of atcxp. Russell h conwells acres of diamonds speech 2 this is a scientific truth also. The black diamond atc guide is a nearessential, everpopular piece of gear designed for multipitch rock climbing.
It is particularly captivating through its easy and intuitive handling. Figure 8 follow through description adapted from gym climbing, john long, chockstone press, 1994. Hvis disse advarsler ikke folges, kan det medfore alvorlige skade eller dod. Most climbers refer to most similar belay devices that work the same way as an atc no matter the manufacturer or model. The black diamond atcs classic design features a large surface area that dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling, and the smoothhandling geometry accommodates rope sizes from 7. The atc guide 2018 is no longer produced by black diamond. When belaying a follower from above, one can easily belay off an anchor, rather than the body, by using guide mode, increasing safety and comfort.
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